Tuesday, December 31, 2013
Amazing Picture-2 Squirrels in 5x5x24 Comstock Tra
Above is an amazing picture of two gray squirrels caught in a Comstock Live Squirrel Trap, taken at the same time. The live cage trap pictured is only 5x5x24. This advanced design allowed both squirrels to be caught both at once. These double powered door traps with the unique swing panel triggers were able to take two squirrels at one time due to the quick powered doors that angle towards the center of the trap when fired. Since the doors are powered, as they close they act sort of like a Chinese finger trap, forcing the squirrel to move forward only, no backing out. When the door contacts the squirrel, the doors add pressure and angle to keep them from backing up, so the squirrel quickly moves forward only, which then allows the doors to close completely.
If you are looking for a method in how to trap squirrels, gray squirrels, red squirrels or flying squirrels, either placing these traps over a den in a "positive set" or using bait using one or both doors will do the trick. There is also a larger trap in 6x6x24 for to take the larger fox squirrels.
These small but durable humane live traps are surely the best offered anywhere. Besides the 5x5 and 6x6 there is a small gutter trap in 3x5 are larger traps in 6x8, 7x7 and 8x10 openings.
Saturday, December 28, 2013
Comstock Beaver Cage Traps and Small Culverts
It was recently suggested that Comstock Custom Cage should offer smaller beaver cage traps to fit into 2 foot and 3 foot culverts, which are common in many areas. What this statement underscores wasn't a shortcoming in the Comstock Beaver Cage Traps, but a need to reiterate and fully explain the versatility in these cage traps and show where they can be used, even in small culverts.
Not only are the large 12x18x39 Comstock Beaver Traps self contained with nothing protruding beyond the confines of the trap, so that they can easily be slid into culverts, these traps are capable of taking the largest beaver, 70 or 80 pounds and at the same time will fit into 3 foot and 2 foot culverts!
The diagonal measurement of the beaver cage trap with the 12x18 inch opening is 22 inches, leaving 2 inches to spare when placed in a small 24 inch culvert!
We also offer the smaller 12x12x36 inch beaver/otter cage trap with a 17 inch diagonal meaning that this cage will even fit into an 18" culvert.
Not only are the large 12x18x39 Comstock Beaver Traps self contained with nothing protruding beyond the confines of the trap, so that they can easily be slid into culverts, these traps are capable of taking the largest beaver, 70 or 80 pounds and at the same time will fit into 3 foot and 2 foot culverts!
The diagonal measurement of the beaver cage trap with the 12x18 inch opening is 22 inches, leaving 2 inches to spare when placed in a small 24 inch culvert!
We also offer the smaller 12x12x36 inch beaver/otter cage trap with a 17 inch diagonal meaning that this cage will even fit into an 18" culvert.
Thursday, December 26, 2013
Great testimonial from a Washington State Trapper!
Subject: Washington state trapper
Product: I just wanted to say this is the first year I have tried using your traps in my line and it is all I will use now. since using your product I have had zero misses and increased my hide supplies by over half. Thank you for making such an incredible product, I truly do appreciate the craftsmanship and reliability in all you guys make!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How did you hear about us? seen your product on youtube
Product: I just wanted to say this is the first year I have tried using your traps in my line and it is all I will use now. since using your product I have had zero misses and increased my hide supplies by over half. Thank you for making such an incredible product, I truly do appreciate the craftsmanship and reliability in all you guys make!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How did you hear about us? seen your product on youtube
Wednesday, December 25, 2013
Comstock Swing Panel Squirrel Cages
Carl Wilkie is still at it. For the past year Carl has been racking up catches in the larger 9x11 cages, flush mount double door traps, standard double door traps and multipurpose traps for raccoons, skunks, woodchucks etc. Carl has begun using the 5x5x24 and 6x6x24 double door, panless, swing panel squirrel traps and catching. Above it looks like 4 squirrels.
Squirrels can't go through a swing panel tap without being captured, no pan to step over or avoid. For anyone unsure of how to catch a squirrel, these traps will turn a first timer into a trapper in short order. They can be set with both doors open flush mounted against holes in structure, both doors opened and baited or used in single door mode.
Both the 5x5 and 6x6 can be used with nose cones accessories under soffits, with holes in walls in either direction, even on the ground over dens.
Friday, December 20, 2013
Trapping during periods of Freezing and Thawing
One of the biggest concerns in any trapping is freeze ups that occur during periods of back and forth weather when temperatures straddle the freezing mark, often going above the freezing mark by day and falling below freezing by night. If there no rain or snow, freeze ups will not be an issue, but cold fronts often bring rain, followed by cold accompanied by freeze ups. If the traps are under cover moisture that causes a freeze up should not be a problem. In a nutshell, if the temps vary between freezing and thawing during wet weather and the cage traps are not under cover the cage traps should be lubricated.
When temperatures remain on either side of 32 degrees, freeze ups are not an issue. Cold weather in and of itself is not an issue. Cage traps are surely no different from any other traps in their susceptibility to cold during changeable weather. It only takes a very small drop of water to freeze parts together. A single drop of water on a trip rod will act as strong as a weld, rendering any trap useless, cage traps included.
There are few parts that require lubrication on a Comstock Cage Trap. During warm months Comstock Cage Traps do not require lubrication, but lubing them will make them smoother. Again, if the traps are to be kept under cover, away from rain and snow during freezing and thawing they should perform well. When lubrication is needed, packing the end bushings with vaseline or the like where the trip rod passes through the frame and adding a small dab of lube on the contact point of trip rod and swing bar should help a great deal. A small shot of silicone on the door and lock bar hinge points could also help if the traps are to be left out in the weather.
If the cages are maintained with just a bit of lube or sheltered from rain during the cold weather they should perform well.
One of the biggest concerns in any trapping is freeze ups that occur during periods of back and forth weather when temperatures straddle the freezing mark, often going above the freezing mark by day and falling below freezing by night. If there no rain or snow, freeze ups will not be an issue, but cold fronts often bring rain, followed by cold accompanied by freeze ups. If the traps are under cover moisture that causes a freeze up should not be a problem. In a nutshell, if the temps vary between freezing and thawing during wet weather and the cage traps are not under cover the cage traps should be lubricated.
When temperatures remain on either side of 32 degrees, freeze ups are not an issue. Cold weather in and of itself is not an issue. Cage traps are surely no different from any other traps in their susceptibility to cold during changeable weather. It only takes a very small drop of water to freeze parts together. A single drop of water on a trip rod will act as strong as a weld, rendering any trap useless, cage traps included.
There are few parts that require lubrication on a Comstock Cage Trap. During warm months Comstock Cage Traps do not require lubrication, but lubing them will make them smoother. Again, if the traps are to be kept under cover, away from rain and snow during freezing and thawing they should perform well. When lubrication is needed, packing the end bushings with vaseline or the like where the trip rod passes through the frame and adding a small dab of lube on the contact point of trip rod and swing bar should help a great deal. A small shot of silicone on the door and lock bar hinge points could also help if the traps are to be left out in the weather.
If the cages are maintained with just a bit of lube or sheltered from rain during the cold weather they should perform well.
Wednesday, December 18, 2013
FISHER and COMSTOCK CAGES
Perhaps the two most common methods of fisher trapping are running pole sets with body gripping traps and cubbies with either body grippers or foothold traps. A third method is cage trapping where the cage actually becomes it's own pre made cubby.
Running pole sets are fairly easy to construct but do require some maintenance, brushing snow from the leaning poles. Traps can get buried. Animals can steal bait. Also, cubbies take time to construct. Cages go in a seconds and are the most reliable. In those states where conventional traps are not legal, cages only, trappers have learned the value in cage traps that keep on working with a very high success rate. Of the cage traps, none are faster, have more power in the doors to prevent back outs, a more reliable wire trigger or are more durable than a Comstock Cage.
Cubbies, set under green timber, hemlock, spruce and balsam offer a protected area where sets will keep on working when the snow flies. Perhaps the most important feature in any trapping is making sets that remain working, relatively free from standard maintenance of other sets, a good reason for sets made under cover.
Obviously fisher don't suddenly drop out the sky before hitting a ground set, but are traveling on the ground before venturing up a running pole set. Fisher have as good or better chance of hitting a ground set, i.e. cubby set or cage trap, as they do a pole set, probably better.
The counterpart to a cubby would be a cage trap, in essence a completely self contained unit, the cage being both trap and cubby all in one, a ready made cubby unit all set to go. Simply drop it in and add a bit of cover. The single door Comstock Cages with rear bait door are built for fisher with the fold down bait door purposely hinged at the bottom for strength and also ease in baiting. When opened and dropped down, bait can be wired to the back of the cage door anywhere you like. Hinged at the bottom where animals tend to fight a cage trap most, there is absolutely nothing to break. Both the 9x11 and 12x12 single door traps with rear bait door in the 36 inch length are excellent for fisher, raccoon and will even take both bobcat and fox. Cages can be pre baited in the shop, bait wired to the door itself, loaded into the vehicle and then placed quickly on site. A long distance call lure in a tree above the cage with a covering over the trap to keep rain and snow off the bait and it's a done deal as they say.
These Comstock Cage Traps are just as good for raccoon or just about any animal you can entice into the traps. The double door Comstock Cage Traps can be placed in trails and travel ways with or without baits.
Perhaps the two most common methods of fisher trapping are running pole sets with body gripping traps and cubbies with either body grippers or foothold traps. A third method is cage trapping where the cage actually becomes it's own pre made cubby.
Running pole sets are fairly easy to construct but do require some maintenance, brushing snow from the leaning poles. Traps can get buried. Animals can steal bait. Also, cubbies take time to construct. Cages go in a seconds and are the most reliable. In those states where conventional traps are not legal, cages only, trappers have learned the value in cage traps that keep on working with a very high success rate. Of the cage traps, none are faster, have more power in the doors to prevent back outs, a more reliable wire trigger or are more durable than a Comstock Cage.
Cubbies, set under green timber, hemlock, spruce and balsam offer a protected area where sets will keep on working when the snow flies. Perhaps the most important feature in any trapping is making sets that remain working, relatively free from standard maintenance of other sets, a good reason for sets made under cover.
Obviously fisher don't suddenly drop out the sky before hitting a ground set, but are traveling on the ground before venturing up a running pole set. Fisher have as good or better chance of hitting a ground set, i.e. cubby set or cage trap, as they do a pole set, probably better.
The counterpart to a cubby would be a cage trap, in essence a completely self contained unit, the cage being both trap and cubby all in one, a ready made cubby unit all set to go. Simply drop it in and add a bit of cover. The single door Comstock Cages with rear bait door are built for fisher with the fold down bait door purposely hinged at the bottom for strength and also ease in baiting. When opened and dropped down, bait can be wired to the back of the cage door anywhere you like. Hinged at the bottom where animals tend to fight a cage trap most, there is absolutely nothing to break. Both the 9x11 and 12x12 single door traps with rear bait door in the 36 inch length are excellent for fisher, raccoon and will even take both bobcat and fox. Cages can be pre baited in the shop, bait wired to the door itself, loaded into the vehicle and then placed quickly on site. A long distance call lure in a tree above the cage with a covering over the trap to keep rain and snow off the bait and it's a done deal as they say.
These Comstock Cage Traps are just as good for raccoon or just about any animal you can entice into the traps. The double door Comstock Cage Traps can be placed in trails and travel ways with or without baits.
Friday, December 13, 2013
NOSE CONES vs. SHIPPING and TIME
All of the nose cones for large and smaller traps are made to fit over or around the traps they accommodate, in the 9x11 sized traps of any length, 18, 24, 30 and 36 inch lengths and also in the 5x5x24 and 6x6x24 squirrel traps. Because the nose cones fit snugly around the traps they work with, they add very little to shipping. When placing an order it saves a great deal to order traps with nose cones to ship together. For, transport and use, these nose cones take up only a small amount of space and do not add a lot of weight for shipping.
Nose cones can save a lot of time in fabricating individual wire units to go over dens and entry points. The squirrel nose cone will accommodate holes in soffits from above, holes in walls, corner holes or holes from below, in the ground on in a building. Since the nose cone can be fastened to a building over a hole in a wall to point in left or right in either direction, the cage trap can be attached to the flat wall length wise more out of site and stabile, rather than protruding from buildings at 90 degrees like other devices that may extend 2 feet straight out from the surface.
All of the nose cones for large and smaller traps are made to fit over or around the traps they accommodate, in the 9x11 sized traps of any length, 18, 24, 30 and 36 inch lengths and also in the 5x5x24 and 6x6x24 squirrel traps. Because the nose cones fit snugly around the traps they work with, they add very little to shipping. When placing an order it saves a great deal to order traps with nose cones to ship together. For, transport and use, these nose cones take up only a small amount of space and do not add a lot of weight for shipping.
Nose cones can save a lot of time in fabricating individual wire units to go over dens and entry points. The squirrel nose cone will accommodate holes in soffits from above, holes in walls, corner holes or holes from below, in the ground on in a building. Since the nose cone can be fastened to a building over a hole in a wall to point in left or right in either direction, the cage trap can be attached to the flat wall length wise more out of site and stabile, rather than protruding from buildings at 90 degrees like other devices that may extend 2 feet straight out from the surface.
Thursday, December 12, 2013
Powder Coated Comstock Cages
These are the first powder coated cages we received from manufacture and they look great. The flat black matte finish covers all components, frame, trigger parts and even cage wire. This thin slick coating will help protect the metal from the elements, while removing the bright silvery shine from the cage wire to allow the traps to blend better with the environment. All 9x11, 12x12 and 12x18 large heavy duty traps with the swing bar trigger system will be powder coated from the factory at no extra cost. If anyone wishes the to have the smaller swing panel squirrel traps or skunk traps powder coated that option is available for an additional 15%.
Tuesday, December 10, 2013
Beaver in Winter, Is the lodge active?
There are some tell tale signs, easy to pick up on, to tell if a beaver lodge is active in winter. The obvious is fresh cuttings along shore, which will at least let you know they have been there recently. The dam will be mudded, water high.
If there is snow on the ground and the lodge is covered, look for a "smoke hole" or breather in the top of the lodge. Beaver build the lodge without packing mud on top of the house, purposely, to allow for fresh air ventilation. The rest of the house will be like concrete, frozen solid and tight. If snow cover is light, you may see a thawed spot on top where heat coming up from the lodge has melted the snow. At times you may even see "smoke" coming from the top of the lodge, which is actuarially condensed water vapor. When the snow on the lodge is deep, you will have to remove just a little from the top of the lodge, which will reveal the thawed top that will have a wet appearance, while the rest of the lodge is frozen. The smoke hole shows that beaver are present. The size of the smoke hole will give an indication of how many are in the lodge. Soccer ball size may mean only a pair but if the top of the lodge has a melted area as big as a bushel basket, or larger, there could be a bunch, 6 to 12 perhaps. A frosted smoke hole means no beaver present. Moisture from the lodge simply rises and freezes, crystalizing on the sticks.
Beaver usually keep the dams up in good shape and water level up. Though not always the case, if a pond starts to drop and the ice sags it could be an indication that no one is home.
Feed piles are a give away. Fresh feed means beaver were planning on spending the winter. Though the feed pile may be fresh, cuttings evident and the dam still in tact, the breather is the best indicator. If the colony had been trapped earlier the feed will look fresh and water may still be up, but the frozen lodge minus a breather shows that you were not to first to find the colony.
It is a good idea to take a minute and check thoroughly. Forty years ago a local tapper set traps in a small creek near a "lodge." He hadn't checked for a smoke hole or feed pile, but made assumptions. Late in spring, after catching no beaver, when the snow began to melt, he realized he had set traps around a large boulder!
There are some tell tale signs, easy to pick up on, to tell if a beaver lodge is active in winter. The obvious is fresh cuttings along shore, which will at least let you know they have been there recently. The dam will be mudded, water high.
If there is snow on the ground and the lodge is covered, look for a "smoke hole" or breather in the top of the lodge. Beaver build the lodge without packing mud on top of the house, purposely, to allow for fresh air ventilation. The rest of the house will be like concrete, frozen solid and tight. If snow cover is light, you may see a thawed spot on top where heat coming up from the lodge has melted the snow. At times you may even see "smoke" coming from the top of the lodge, which is actuarially condensed water vapor. When the snow on the lodge is deep, you will have to remove just a little from the top of the lodge, which will reveal the thawed top that will have a wet appearance, while the rest of the lodge is frozen. The smoke hole shows that beaver are present. The size of the smoke hole will give an indication of how many are in the lodge. Soccer ball size may mean only a pair but if the top of the lodge has a melted area as big as a bushel basket, or larger, there could be a bunch, 6 to 12 perhaps. A frosted smoke hole means no beaver present. Moisture from the lodge simply rises and freezes, crystalizing on the sticks.
Beaver usually keep the dams up in good shape and water level up. Though not always the case, if a pond starts to drop and the ice sags it could be an indication that no one is home.
Feed piles are a give away. Fresh feed means beaver were planning on spending the winter. Though the feed pile may be fresh, cuttings evident and the dam still in tact, the breather is the best indicator. If the colony had been trapped earlier the feed will look fresh and water may still be up, but the frozen lodge minus a breather shows that you were not to first to find the colony.
It is a good idea to take a minute and check thoroughly. Forty years ago a local tapper set traps in a small creek near a "lodge." He hadn't checked for a smoke hole or feed pile, but made assumptions. Late in spring, after catching no beaver, when the snow began to melt, he realized he had set traps around a large boulder!
Monday, December 9, 2013
Beaver Cage Traps VS. Size
Beaver Cage Traps vs. Size
Having caught nearly 400 beaver over the past three years in the Comstock beaver cage traps we have gained a lot of experience and learned what works. The cages we invented and sizes that we used all worked great. In any type of cage trapping there is an acceptable practical size range to take all beaver and somewhere in the abyss, a bare minimum. No one wants to miss animals, nor do they want to carry a trap larger than what is needed. We've always said that anyone can make a trap to catch, but to make one as small as possible, that's the key. Though we do know what works, we don't know exactly how far we can go by shrinking the cages to find the minimum size to take larger 60 pound beaver every time, but have a good idea.
The 12x12x36 inch traps have taken beaver up to 61 pounds while, the 12x18x32 inch traps have taken beaver 45,46,47 and 52 pounds so far, showing a lot of promise in length. Splitting the difference in opening size, while shortening the 39 inch cage to 33 inches, we have come up with an idea for a 12x15x33 inch trap only 70% as large as the standard trap. Since the body of a large 50 pound beaver is about 32 inches long, adding in the diagonal of the 12x15x33 inch trap, it would seem a trap that size would not only work, but would be a whole lot easier to carry in the field, easier to place and take up less space in a vehicle.
Beaver usually become bigger around before they get much longer. Depending on the area of the country as related to trapping pressure, the average size of the beaver can vary. Untrapped areas may have a lot of 60+ pound beaver so that the larger traps may be best. But, where pressure is greater, or just due to section of the country, beaver can range in the 40's to low 50's.
We are beginning to find that with these powered door, wire trigger, double door Comstock Cages that the only factor of real importance is that the beaver must be able to fit into the trap, period. If he fits, a catch is made.
When live trapping it's a different story altogether. The 12x18x39 is a great trap for humane live trapping beaver as it gives them the room that they need to move around. In the coming months we will be building and experimenting to find what is optimum.
Having caught nearly 400 beaver over the past three years in the Comstock beaver cage traps we have gained a lot of experience and learned what works. The cages we invented and sizes that we used all worked great. In any type of cage trapping there is an acceptable practical size range to take all beaver and somewhere in the abyss, a bare minimum. No one wants to miss animals, nor do they want to carry a trap larger than what is needed. We've always said that anyone can make a trap to catch, but to make one as small as possible, that's the key. Though we do know what works, we don't know exactly how far we can go by shrinking the cages to find the minimum size to take larger 60 pound beaver every time, but have a good idea.
The 12x12x36 inch traps have taken beaver up to 61 pounds while, the 12x18x32 inch traps have taken beaver 45,46,47 and 52 pounds so far, showing a lot of promise in length. Splitting the difference in opening size, while shortening the 39 inch cage to 33 inches, we have come up with an idea for a 12x15x33 inch trap only 70% as large as the standard trap. Since the body of a large 50 pound beaver is about 32 inches long, adding in the diagonal of the 12x15x33 inch trap, it would seem a trap that size would not only work, but would be a whole lot easier to carry in the field, easier to place and take up less space in a vehicle.
Beaver usually become bigger around before they get much longer. Depending on the area of the country as related to trapping pressure, the average size of the beaver can vary. Untrapped areas may have a lot of 60+ pound beaver so that the larger traps may be best. But, where pressure is greater, or just due to section of the country, beaver can range in the 40's to low 50's.
We are beginning to find that with these powered door, wire trigger, double door Comstock Cages that the only factor of real importance is that the beaver must be able to fit into the trap, period. If he fits, a catch is made.
When live trapping it's a different story altogether. The 12x18x39 is a great trap for humane live trapping beaver as it gives them the room that they need to move around. In the coming months we will be building and experimenting to find what is optimum.
Friday, December 6, 2013
TIGHT vs. LOOSE TRIGGER WIRES
Some may worry about trigger wires that loosen up. Trigger wires can be tightened easily by crimping at the base where they connect to the swing bar. However, the important aspect is knowing that it really makes little difference if the wires are solid or flex. When they are tight the trigger is actuated quickly upon contact. Loose wires allow the animal to penetrate the compartment deeper before the trigger fires. Having some play in a loose trigger wire, if anything, gives an animal more confidence to push on with little resistance to impede them in a loose wire. By the time the trap fires the animal may be centered between the doors exactly where he should be to prevent a quick dash or back-out..
Some may worry about trigger wires that loosen up. Trigger wires can be tightened easily by crimping at the base where they connect to the swing bar. However, the important aspect is knowing that it really makes little difference if the wires are solid or flex. When they are tight the trigger is actuated quickly upon contact. Loose wires allow the animal to penetrate the compartment deeper before the trigger fires. Having some play in a loose trigger wire, if anything, gives an animal more confidence to push on with little resistance to impede them in a loose wire. By the time the trap fires the animal may be centered between the doors exactly where he should be to prevent a quick dash or back-out..
Thursday, December 5, 2013
TRIGGERS, Short Throw vs. Hair Trigger
There is a vast difference between a "hair trigger" and a trigger that has a short throw or small amount of travel before it fires. Though a hair trigger general travels only a short distance before the trigger is actuated, the connotation includes a trigger that is also touchy, very sensitive to any movement that could set it off. It could be actual trigger contact or merely jarring the trap itself. This type of setting is one that can easily misfire. A slight bump to the trap, without even touching the trigger can cause the trap to fire. A hair trigger is generally not what is required as the traps are often found sprung and without a catch.
However, some traps, like the Comstock Cage Traps can be set with a short travel to fire the trigger. The triggers on these traps can be made to fire with only a fraction of travel and yet will remain stable. With a hair trigger, usually the trigger is not seated properly, but partially engaged at the contact points. In any trigger position the amount of pressure require to fire a Comstock Cage is exactly the same, no touchy areas or uncertainty associated with a hair trigger. When trying to set a hair trigger on other traps, they often fire. If you are lucky enough to get one set, just how hair trigger is it? It's always an unknown.
The trigger on the Comstock Trap can be moved from center contact to either end of the short contact bar on the swing bar or U bar depending on the trap. In any case, if you place the trigger so that it will travel only a short distance you can rest assured that the trap is no more or less sensitive than it would be in any position, very stable. The amount of pressure required to fire the trap can be altered by where the door hook rests on the short trip rod posts or dog bar on the beaver traps.
There is a vast difference between a "hair trigger" and a trigger that has a short throw or small amount of travel before it fires. Though a hair trigger general travels only a short distance before the trigger is actuated, the connotation includes a trigger that is also touchy, very sensitive to any movement that could set it off. It could be actual trigger contact or merely jarring the trap itself. This type of setting is one that can easily misfire. A slight bump to the trap, without even touching the trigger can cause the trap to fire. A hair trigger is generally not what is required as the traps are often found sprung and without a catch.
However, some traps, like the Comstock Cage Traps can be set with a short travel to fire the trigger. The triggers on these traps can be made to fire with only a fraction of travel and yet will remain stable. With a hair trigger, usually the trigger is not seated properly, but partially engaged at the contact points. In any trigger position the amount of pressure require to fire a Comstock Cage is exactly the same, no touchy areas or uncertainty associated with a hair trigger. When trying to set a hair trigger on other traps, they often fire. If you are lucky enough to get one set, just how hair trigger is it? It's always an unknown.
The trigger on the Comstock Trap can be moved from center contact to either end of the short contact bar on the swing bar or U bar depending on the trap. In any case, if you place the trigger so that it will travel only a short distance you can rest assured that the trap is no more or less sensitive than it would be in any position, very stable. The amount of pressure required to fire the trap can be altered by where the door hook rests on the short trip rod posts or dog bar on the beaver traps.
Wednesday, December 4, 2013
COVERING TRAPS-camouflage
Comstock Beaver Cage Traps are have a small profile when viewed from the end so that a swimming beaver coming from either end of the trap are not intimidated. Frame wire that is only 1/4" in diameter is not a deterrent. The trap is hardly more than an unconfined bare trigger wire, nothing for a beaver to avoid. Though we do often camouflage our sets, camouflage is not a prerequisite to making a catch by any means. Covering a trap would seem to be an issue of personal preference since these traps work well with or without coverings. Perhaps the most important consideration for hiding a valuable trap would be to reduce theivery.
Comstock Beaver Cage Traps are have a small profile when viewed from the end so that a swimming beaver coming from either end of the trap are not intimidated. Frame wire that is only 1/4" in diameter is not a deterrent. The trap is hardly more than an unconfined bare trigger wire, nothing for a beaver to avoid. Though we do often camouflage our sets, camouflage is not a prerequisite to making a catch by any means. Covering a trap would seem to be an issue of personal preference since these traps work well with or without coverings. Perhaps the most important consideration for hiding a valuable trap would be to reduce theivery.
Monday, December 2, 2013
Carl Wilki
CARL WILKI-Facebook
For those considering Comstock Live Cage Traps for ADC businesses, home or fur trapping, who may have questions about just how effective these humane live traps are, you need look no further than Carl Wilki's Facebook Page. Carl is a long time experienced nuisance wildlife trapper from Ilinois who began using Comstock Cage traps in his business a couple of years ago for woodchucks, skunks and raccoons. This past year Carl expanded his supply of Comstock Cages, adding two dozen more to his arsenal, while at the same time liquidating the conventional pan traps he had used for years. I'm not going to paraphrase. Anyone can read Carl's own words to understand how much he loves the new Comstock Cage Traps because of the success rate, which puts more money in his pocket since success and closure come so easily and consistently. He sets Comstock Cages and catches, It's that simple. Back-outs just don't happen. Animals don't beat the power doors. A hesitant animal is pushed into the trap. Cages can be made shorter because of the speed and power in the doors. There are many others who share the same passion and enthusiasm about the Comstock Traps, but none more vocal and supportive, sharing his success with others. Thanks Carl.
Carl is one of many who have used both pan traps and traps the operate in a similar fashion to the Comstock Cages. There is a long list of those who have tried all brands with all kinds of triggers, even wire triggers and shelved what they had for the Comstock Traps. Size, practicality, price, function, durability, reliability, consistency and stability combined with sensitivity, price, quality in powder coating, you name it, are unmatched. This not only includes traps for woodchucks, raccoons and skunks but the smaller chipmunk and squirrel traps as well as the larger beaver traps, something for everyone. If you have a problem, we have a solution.
Not only do we make and sell our traps, we are clients too, using the traps in our nuisance wildlife control business every day. With just under 400 beaver taken in our own business, we have taken 397 beaver to date in the Comstock Beaver Cage Traps, which actually puts us in second place, well behind one trapper who has taken more than 600!
For those considering Comstock Live Cage Traps for ADC businesses, home or fur trapping, who may have questions about just how effective these humane live traps are, you need look no further than Carl Wilki's Facebook Page. Carl is a long time experienced nuisance wildlife trapper from Ilinois who began using Comstock Cage traps in his business a couple of years ago for woodchucks, skunks and raccoons. This past year Carl expanded his supply of Comstock Cages, adding two dozen more to his arsenal, while at the same time liquidating the conventional pan traps he had used for years. I'm not going to paraphrase. Anyone can read Carl's own words to understand how much he loves the new Comstock Cage Traps because of the success rate, which puts more money in his pocket since success and closure come so easily and consistently. He sets Comstock Cages and catches, It's that simple. Back-outs just don't happen. Animals don't beat the power doors. A hesitant animal is pushed into the trap. Cages can be made shorter because of the speed and power in the doors. There are many others who share the same passion and enthusiasm about the Comstock Traps, but none more vocal and supportive, sharing his success with others. Thanks Carl.
Carl is one of many who have used both pan traps and traps the operate in a similar fashion to the Comstock Cages. There is a long list of those who have tried all brands with all kinds of triggers, even wire triggers and shelved what they had for the Comstock Traps. Size, practicality, price, function, durability, reliability, consistency and stability combined with sensitivity, price, quality in powder coating, you name it, are unmatched. This not only includes traps for woodchucks, raccoons and skunks but the smaller chipmunk and squirrel traps as well as the larger beaver traps, something for everyone. If you have a problem, we have a solution.
Not only do we make and sell our traps, we are clients too, using the traps in our nuisance wildlife control business every day. With just under 400 beaver taken in our own business, we have taken 397 beaver to date in the Comstock Beaver Cage Traps, which actually puts us in second place, well behind one trapper who has taken more than 600!
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